Dreams do come true – but often, not by chance.
In the case of the most recent Chosun Taekwondo Academy Korea Taekwondo Training
& Cultural Tour, forethought and determination combined over the course of
many months to create an unforgettable journey to the “Land of the Morning Calm”.
In early July of 2012, twenty eager students, headquartered in Warwick, NY,
along with several colleagues from across the nation, converged to become
immersed in a profound experience certain to last a lifetime. By conjoining the
thrill of training in the homeland of taekwondo with the cultural revelations
only a tour of this nature can invoke, all involved were rewarded with skills
and adventures far beyond measure.
Taekwondo is the
national martial art and Olympic sport of Korea. Defined as “foot-hand-way” or
the “method of smashing with hands and feet”, it stands as the most popular
martial discipline in the world today with an estimated membership of over
ninety-million practitioners. Rooted in
Japanese karate and Chinese chuan fa, taekwondo has matured over the past six
decades into a uniquely Korean entity replete with its own set of skills,
customs and code of honor. Like kimchi,
hanbok and the Tripitaka Koreana, the Korean people are rightly proud of this
achievement and the global notoriety taekwondo provides.
Nevertheless, in
order to justly comprehend the rich philosophy that supports taekwondo, one must
sample the heritage, history, geography and culinary delights that fuel its country
of origin. Only then is it possible to truly appreciate the traditional Korean
martial art in its fullness.
Korea is a nation of
mountains; in fact, 70% of its landmass features towering peaks tapering into
lush valleys bisected by ribbons of meandering, concrete roadways. Houses
topped with scalloped, ceramic- tiled roofs surrounded by rice paddies dot the
countryside. Seoul, the capital of South Korea, stands in stark contrast to
these bucolic settings. An ultra-modern metropolis with a population of
11,000,000 people, Seoul boasts skyscrapers of steel and glass juxtaposed
against the backdrop of ancient Buddhist temples standing side by side,
reflecting the native Confucian ethic of senior and junior so prevalent across
the strategically-significant peninsula. Here, past and present meet. Yet, in
order to reach these scenic treasures, one must first endure a journey of many
miles and hours.
Invariably, after
committing to a tour of this magnitude, one of the foremost questions asked by
participants is “How long is the flight?” When traveling to Korea for the first
time, it is always helpful to recall the great seaward expeditions of the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, those for example, braved by Balboa, Magellan
and Cook, taking months, if not years, to complete. Subsequently, while
daunting, the comparatively short thirteen-hour transit, shoe-horned into a
coach seat, correctly acts as a prelude to an intense week of extraordinary
training and cultural enlightenment.
Departure
– A Much Anticipated Moment
Saturday morning, 5:30am. Our group boards a
yellow school bus chartered long ago in the throes of winter for the first leg
of a journey that will eventually lead to our final destination over six-thousand
miles away. It was mistaken to think the commute would consume little more than
the usual two hours as we crawl across the Tappan Zee Bridge due to weekend road
repair. Still, we arrive at JFK International Airport with more than ample time
to clear security, converge on the gate and enjoy a light breakfast.
On five separate
occasions in the past, I have led enthusiastic groups of individuals, often
accompanied by my mentor and teacher Grandmaster Richard Chun, on expeditions such
as the one we are about to embark upon today. Each, in its own way has proven
unique. Age, gender of the participants, training locations, choice of cultural
sites, even hotels and restaurants, all merge to create vast stretches of
experience certain to enhance the mind, body and spirit of the practicing martial
artist for all time. Even the few not directly involved in the martial arts that
join us simply out of curiosity, are exhilarated and enlightened by the
journey.
Conceiving,
planning and, ultimately, executing a tour of this depth involves, at minimum,
a year of extensive preparation. An appropriate travel agency, ideally with
offices both in the United States and Korea with English-speaking contacts,
must carefully be selected. Previous experience in arranging taekwondo tours is
preferable. Once this hurdle is cleared, and a reasonable cost is negotiated, the
recruitment process begins in earnest. Securing the requisite number of
travelers can either make or break a tour; too few, and the all-inclusive price
will soar substantially. Too many, and the delicate interplay between
participants can suffer compounded by exigent logistical challenges. Successful
management has, by now, led us to arrive at just the right balance overall. Regardless,
from the start, excitement and anticipation quickly become infectious.
Arrival
in Korea - Land of the Morning Calm
Sunday afternoon, 4:10pm, local time, South Korea. Having crossed the
International Dateline, gaining a day, the landing gear of Asiana Airlines Flight
OZ221 meets the tarmac with a disconcerting shudder followed by an audible sigh
of relief emanating from the weary passengers. Bleary-eyed, we deplane, clear
customs, collect our baggage, convert our dollars to won and search for the tour
guide who will become our constant companion for the next seven days. Jed “The
General” Kim, surprisingly tall with an officious demeanor, welcomes us,
quickly taking a head count. With our number confirmed, he briskly leads us
through a maze of fellow travelers to a blue and white luxury motor coach
idling outside the main terminal. With our luggage stowed beneath, we roll on
toward the four-star Somerset Palace Hotel, our home away from home for the
duration of our stay.
The port of Incheon
is legendary for the decisive amphibious invasion that took place during the
Korean War on September 15th, 1950 involving UN forces. Commanded by General Douglas MacArthur, the
stunning all-out assault disrupted enemy supply lines, reclaiming much of the
territory previously captured by North Korean troops at the start of the conflict.
Today, the four-lane Airport 130 Expressway connects Yeongjong Island, on which
the airport is built, to the center of Seoul, a span of roughly twenty-five
miles that includes a crossing of the two-mile long Yeongjong Grand Bridge.
Once in Seoul proper, our driver adroitly negotiates the winding, narrow back
streets that branch off wide, well-lit thoroughfares, barely missing other
vehicles in the process.
The Somerset Palace
Hotel, across from Kyeongbok Palace originally built in 1394, is located at 85
Susong-Dong, Jongno-Gu. This has been our chosen place of residence for many
years offering extended stay suites, in-room washer-dryers, a pool, sauna and hot
tub tucked away on the roof. But perhaps most importantly, scrumptious Western breakfasts
for those not yet use to the traditional Asian fare. Best of all, Gogyesa
Temple, the leading Buddhist religious site in Seoul originally established in 1395,
literally lays a few steps from the rare entrance. Meditation practice begins
at 4:00am. A few sturdy Chosun members often weave their way through the
darkened street to sit quietly in reflection prior to a long day of vigorous
training, joining the throng of devotees, mostly dominated by elderly women, who
are performing the 108 prostrations.
International
Kumgang Taekwondo Center
Monday morning, 8:00am. Following a
fortifying breakfast washed down by strong cups of coffee, we board our motor
coach destined for the International Kumgang Taekwondo Center. I have had the
privilege of knowing Master Byeong Cheol An, the center’s head instructor,
since he hosted our first mutual training session at the Korean War Memorial
Museum in 2004. There, in a building segregated from the main structure, he had
created a striking, hexagonal-shaped training facility, then known as Hoki
Taekwondo, complete with fitness equipment and a full complement of training
gear. Eventually gaining notoriety, he moved his operations to his present site
at 736-123F Yangcheon-gu. This quaint district of Seoul dates back to the
twelfth-century and is lined with tiny stalls selling an astonishing assortment
of fresh fish, thorny herbs, blazing red peppers and long strands of garlic
cloves. Here, he manages two spacious training centers marketed worldwide
through the Korea Tourism Organization. Practitioners from many nations,
interested in experiencing the practice of taekwondo on its home turf, eventually
find their way to his door.
To the accomplished
practitioner the talents acquired by Master An over a lifetime immediately become
obvious. Assisted by several juniors, his affable manner and almost perfect
English provide an effective vehicle for transmitting the martial secrets first
revealed at the feet of his seniors. A captivating instructor, his skills accurately
reflect those supported by grandmasters throughout Korea well over twice his
age.
Due to the
comprehensive nature of the International Kumgang Taekwondo Center curriculum,
we allocate a full day for training. Following a short commute to the dojang,
our group is met by two assistants who guide us through lanes too constricted
for our coach to manage. After climbing two short flights of stairs, we change
into our toboks (uniforms) and line
up, acutely aware of the potential intensity the session is certain to offer.
For the next
forty-five minutes, following the requisite bows of respect and meditation, we
engage in a series of flexibility exercises, calisthenics and relays intended
to distribute blood and elevate the core temperature of the body in preparation
for the extreme movements yet to come. By now perspiring freely, our students are
loose and ready to train.
Basics, or kibon, represent a central pillar of
traditional taekwondo. Master An clearly appreciates this fact and begins class
with a progression of strikes, blocks and kicks, first in a stationary position,
followed by multiple, shifting stances across the length of the dojang. Close
attention is paid to the chambering of individual techniques with each sequence
assigned a two-count; the initial motion being the preparation, with the second
allowing for the execution or follow through of the skill. Low, middle, high
and knife hand blocks are examined closely in conjunction with knife hand and
back fist strikes
Moving on to
kicking, or chagi, we are directed to
take a step forward prior to delivering a number of well-practiced foot
techniques. This simple addition in footwork adds a perplexing challenge to
otherwise simple techniques. Lastly we are required to perform front leg side,
round and hook kicks
Our school, the
Chosun Taekwondo Academy, is well known for its focus on poomsae or formal exercises. Literally defined as choreographed
sequences of techniques aimed at defeating multiple imaginary attackers
advancing from various directions, poomsae practice lies at the heart of
taekwondo and symbolizes it’s the unique catalog of tactics. Subsequently, we
are delighted when Master An commands us to line up in preparation to perform
the Taegeuk and Yudanja poomsae sets sanctioned by Kukkiwon, the World Taekwondo
Federation and the Korea Taekwondo Association. Aside from the Moo Duk Kwan and Palgwe series so dear to our students, these are the most popular
formal exercises in taekwondo and are reviewed with regularity at our dojang.
After executing the eight Taegeuk poomsae to Master An’s count, followed by
their performance without count, we progress to the significantly more complex
black belt poomsae. However, due to time constraints, we focus exclusively on Koryo, Keumgang and Taebaek, fine tuning each.
Before we know it,
it is time for lunch. Changing into our tour tee-shirts, we jam into three
minivans for the short ride to the restaurant – a Korean barbeque eatery where
we sit cross-legged on the floor chatting away with our hosts about the pitch
of training here in Korea, as opposed to in America. Conversations such as
these are always illuminating.
The hour passes
quickly and we are back in the dojang. There is still much to learn. During the
early stages of preparation for our journey, I generally communicate to the
travel agency that our group will consist primarily of adults, some, like me,
advanced in years. For this reason, coupled with the fact that we consistently
practice a pure and traditional form of taekwondo emphasizing self-defense, I
request instruction in all the major aspects of the art less Olympic-style
sparring. Knowing this, Master An continues the day with a multiplicity of
defensive and conditioning skills.
In the days of
Itosu and Funakoshi, back when the great masters of karate-do were cultivating their art in Okinawa, the makiwara or kwon go in Korean, was liberally used to condition the hands, arms
and legs. Often constructed of rice straw bound by rope to an upright wooden
post anchored in the ground, the makiwara was struck anywhere from fifty to
one-hundred times daily in the hope of calcifying the fist making it impervious
to injury upon impact. Present day taekwondo training continues to rely on this
practice albeit with modified tools. One on one, using arm against arm in this
case rather than the kwon go, we are taught a sequence of movements whereby the
forearms come together conditioning both the outer and inner edges. Beginning
with a left, then right low block (ahre makki), the drill continues with inside
middle blocks (an momtong makki), high blocks (eogul makki), outside middle
blocks (bakkat momtong makki), inner arm middle blocks (palmok bakkat momtong
makki), and concludes with crescent strikes (bandal chilki). By choice, I am
paired up with my senior, Master Pablo Alejandro, and so we proceed with vigor,
arms aching from the effort, but delighted with the outcome.
The remainder of
the afternoon is filled with a wealth of self-defense techniques (ho sin sool)
ranging from five, formalized releases, to extractions from an assortment of
grabs including single/double-hand seizures and collar grasps. Fortunately, all
are captured on video for later documentation and practice back home.
After posing for
group photographs, Master An presents each students with a certificate and
school uniform. In turn, we honor him and his assistants with a plaque
inscribed with his name along with a copy of my latest book in which he is depicted.
Pleasantly fatigued, we return to our hotel for an evening of sightseeing and
dinner.
The
Kukkiwon – World Taekwondo Headquarters
One of the many highlights unique to
our expeditions, past and present, is scheduled instruction at the Kukkiwon,
center of taekwondo operations worldwide. While many martial artists visit this
cathedral of the Korean martial arts, few actually take part in the rigorous training
sessions exclusively offered there. Stepping out onto what appears to be acres
of blue and gold puzzle mat under a sky of flags symbolizing delegate
countries, the taekwondoist cannot help but feel inspired by the rich history and
heritage contained within its sacred walls. Here, great championships have be
fought, promotion tests conducted and poomsae created.
Literally
translated as “National Gymnasium”, the Kukkiwon immediately satisfied a need
for a centralized training facility upon its inauguration on November 30, 1972.
At the urging of Dr. Un Yong Kim, benefactor and president, the structure was
intentionally located high atop a hillside in the Kangnam district of Seoul in
hopes of precipitating the highly sought-after “miracle” of Olympic
recognition. Mirroring traditional Korean architecture by virtue of the blue kiwa tiles used for its rooftop, the
humble exterior is deceptive in that it houses management offices, locker
rooms, seminar space and a museum. But perhaps most importantly, its spacious
interior filled with ample spectator seating, permits various national and
university teams to competitively test their hard-earned skills in a
world-class environment.
Tuesday afternoon, 4:30pm. The morning was
spent wandering the somber, cavernous halls of the Korea War Museum. Now, with
the monsoon season nipping at our heels, rain is falling. Glass doors on all
sides of the Kukkiwon are thrown open to the outside, the humidity and heat,
oppressive. Awash with anticipation, we change into our toboks, venture out
onto the training floor through a narrow access ramp, and await the arrival of
our designated instructor.
Within minutes, Mr.
Nam Gyu Park, an official, greets us is jacket and tie. Through our guide, he
requests that we join Kukkiwon president Won Sik Kang for a group photograph
using the main entrance of the building as a suitable backdrop. With three,
large hangul characters spelling out
Kukkiwon at our backs, we pose proudly with Grandmaster Kang tasked with
shepherding taekwondo through the coming decade.
Back on the floor,
our instructor, Grandmaster No, a slender man in his mid-forties with thick
black hair and heavy eyebrows accompanied by a quick smile, invites me to
conduct the sequence of warm ups. I comply and after forming appropriate lines
predicated by rank, begin the routine. I have been a visitor to the Kukkiwon on
five separate occasions, training there twice. But never before was I directed
to lead a class in even as something as fundamental as the opening exercises. As
I look around I experience an odd sense of surrealism; here I stand at the hub
of taekwondo, leading a group of students in a drill that we perform multiple
times on a daily basis yet feeling so humbled given the significance of the moment. The honor leaves me breathless.
Upon completion, I
fall back in place at the command of Grandmaster No. And so begins the most
challenging training experience without exception of our entire tour. For the
next several hours, interrupted only by one brief break for water, we
vigorously execute an array of stepping basics, kicking techniques, and complex
footwork (baljitki), culminating in a full hour of poomsae practice. Much to
our satisfaction, we are being taught the most current iterations of the
Taegeuk and Yudanja series now being transmitted by Kukkiwon masters.
With the physical
portion of our session complete, Grandmaster No, accompanied by several
officials, presents each student with a Certificate of Training. A sense of
accomplishment is clearly etched on the beet-red faces of my students as they
accept a document that will no doubt hang in an honored place back home.
Quick to replace
sweat-soaked uniforms with dry clothes, a question is raised by the group as a
whole. All are keen to obtain uniforms and other taekwondo-related accessories
and ask when our schedule will permit a visit to a martial arts retail store. Recalling
that I intend to replace a dozen worn-out kicking paddles presently in use at
our school with those of a higher quality, we walk down the long hill from the
Kukkiwon, through its renowned gate, and descend on Sang Moo Sa, a local supply
outlet. Almost empty, the establishment is about to close but remains open pleased
to absorb this great influx of surprise business!
Korean
Cuisine - Banchan, Kimchi and Bulgogi
Any portrayal of our journey would
be incomplete without a sampling of the succulent culinary delights unique to
the Land of the morning Calm. It is difficult to put in words the multitude of
tastes and textures offered up in Korean cuisine. From banchan to kimchi and bulgogi,
dishes of all varieties ooze with tangy hot spices, garlic and pickled
seasoning. Huge pancakes stuffed with seafood and dumplings the size of monkey
fists are washed down by frosty, cold glasses of Cass beer or soju, the
clear liquor distilled from sweet potatoes;
cold noodles in a delightfully refreshing broth revives the palette on
exceedingly hot days. All this dominated by thin cuts of marinated beef cooked
over open barbecue pits centered on each table with exhaust tubes dangling from
the ceiling sucking up vapors infused with mouth-watering aromas.
Eateries vary as
they do anywhere in the world. One evening finds us seated at a long table in
the famous Korea House. Built in 1981 to echo the style of architecture used in
constructing Kyongbokkung Palace, musical and cultural performances can be
viewed over dinner. Most restaurants we frequent, however, require that we sit
cross-legged on the floor, conforming to traditional Asian custom. Almost
exclusively, the tables are filled with numerous tiny dishes of pickled
vegetables, noodles and seafood. Drinking tap water is not recommended and so
large decanters of filtered water are distributed; that along with small
covered bowls of steamed rice or bap, eaten with long spoons or thin metal
chop sticks. Either way, partaking of such a balanced diet day after day undeniably
leaves one with a strong sense of pronounced health.
The
World Taekwondo Instructor Academy
Paging through the
Kukkiwon Textbook many years ago, a comprehensive volume originally published
in 1975, I took notice of a severe looking martial artist chosen to model the technical
attributes of taekwondo by virtue of his long experience and skilled attention
to detail. Again, in 1998, this accepted standard-bearer of the art recognized
for his technical acumen, would appear in a promotional video produced by the
Organizing Committee for Taekwondo Korea 2000 as a staff instructor. Seeing who
I eventually came to know as Grandmaster Kyu Hyun Lee in motion rather than on
the printed page, convinced me all the more that I would someday seek out his
instruction. As destiny would have it, this was more difficult than expected.
In planning the 1999 Chosun Taekwondo Academy Korea Training & Cultural
Tour, partially sponsored by the Committee, I had inquired if Grandmaster Lee would
be one of the teachers as advertised but was informed that his schedule did not
coincide with our visit. Likewise, in the initial planning stages of our 2004
tour, I once more requested his talents; “Unavailable” was the response from
Korea and so, disappointedly, I turned my gaze elsewhere. Then, a few short
weeks before departure, I received a surprise email from our travel service
stating that the grandmaster had accepted our group provided we allow his
senior instructors to assist. Naturally, rather than a condition, this
stipulation amounted to a bonus. Since then, I would not consider developing an
itinerary without including a day of training with Grandmaster Lee.
Wednesday morning, 8:00am. We board our motor
coach and began the short journey to Yangsu-ri, a tiny village roughly one
hour’s drive due east of Seoul. The metropolitan scenery flashes by as Jed Kim
directs our attention to several key points of interest along the way. Asia, in
general, is noted for its picturesque rice paddies and the Korean countryside
is no exception to this rule. Slowly, the urban sprawl begins to thin as acre upon
acre of rice plants replace the high rise apartments. We exit the freeway and
snake our way through winding country roads barely wide enough to accept the
width of our bus. Eventually, the quaint village we are bound for materializes
along with its single gas station, restaurant and shops selling an assortment
of daily needs. Crossing a well-maintained concrete bridge minus guard rails
that spans a swiftly running brook, we have gone as far as our coach can carry
us. After a trek measuring thousands of miles, we have arrived at the World
Taekwondo Instructor Academy under the direction of Grandmaster Kyu Hyun Lee.
Graciously met by
one of the grandmaster’s instructors, we follow up a rutted dirt road, small
dogs in a kennel barking beside it, to a narrow set of stone steps cut into the
hillside. Before us stands a corrugated-steel structure with a set of double glass
doors thrown open to the elements. Inside, it is cool in stark contrast to the
humid air that weighs heavy in the small valley; again, it is raining.
Instantly, we are enchanted by our surroundings. The safety floor, set with
green puzzle-mat bordered in orange, sits surrounded by walls adorned with
memorabilia directly reflecting a lifetime devoted to the Korean martial arts;
brass plates inscribed with the names of the original kwans or martial arts
institutes established during the 1940s and 50s, are suspended above the door;
a black-framed scroll written in hangul characters reading: “A National Sport,
Taekwondo”, mindfully painted in the personal calligraphy of South Korean
President Chung Hee Park in March of 1971, remind us of the tenure and
seniority Grandmaster Lee enjoys within the taekwondo community.
After rapidly
changing into our uniforms, we line up according rank as is the custom. Astride
Grandmaster Lee are nine additional instructors, mostly adults of advanced age,
from Sejong University, all teachers of Taekwondology. Center stage,
introducing his disciples, is the man we have traveled a world away to train
with.
Grandmaster Kyu
Hyun Lee, currently president of the World Taekwondo Instructor Academy, cuts a
striking image; with a shock of white hair centered over the left eye in
concert with his drill sergeant demeanor, his presence is unmistakable. He is
in his early seventies but moves with the agility and stealth of a cat. His
flexibility, enthusiasm and strength are in direct proportion to his long years
of dedication to the art of taekwondo. From 1990 to 1998, his abilities earned him the position of
Chairman, Kukkiwon
Training Subcommittee. Prior to that, from 1973 to 1982, he directed the Kukkiwon Demonstration
Team. Most recently, he represented South Korea in the 2012 World Taekwondo
Championships, is featured in a Web-based seminar series and has been selected
to train Chinese nationals.
Much to my
surprise, the grandmaster summons me to stand beside him. In his native tongue,
he is describing my school, editorial contributions and affiliation with
Grandmaster Chun to his Korean students. I am humbled that he would take notice
and make mention of these topics. As he concludes, I return to my place in line, assume the
joombi posture, bow, and the long-anticipated training session officially
begins.
In preparation for the dynamic martial
movements about to follow, a Sejong University instructor performs the
mandatory warm up exercises. Many components of the standard sequence appear to
be enriched by postures borrowed from hatha yoga, ultimately intended to enhance
flexibility and cultivate core strength. Upon completion, Grandmaster Lee takes
command. Fortunately for our group we are conversant in Korean nomenclature as
it relates to taekwondo technique. Still, even though the grandmaster speaks
passable English, he relies on an interpreter to accurately transmit his technical
philosophy into words.
We begin, as most training
sessions do, with a series of strikes in a stationary stance followed by
blocking skills moving back and forth across the dojang floor. It swiftly becomes
clear that Grandmaster Lee is adamant concerning precise movement during the
detailed practice of basic technique. A staunch believer in the Korean martial
arts doctrine of shin chook, he
exhorts us to relax in the delivery of each strike and to punctuate the point
of impact with tension. The phrase, “relaxation and power!” is repeated over and over again.
Being a vanguard of
Kukkiwon-sanctioned poomsae, Grandmaster Lee specializes in the practice of the
Taegeuk and Yudanja series formal exercises. Subsequently, following the
practice of basic technique, we enter into an intense period of poomsae
training.
Prior to the
execution of traditional taekwondo formal exercises, it is always helpful to
recall their purpose, philosophy and definition. Poomsae, of whatever pedigree,
can be defined as choreographed sequences of techniques aimed at defeating
multiple attackers approaching from various directions. They represent the
method through which venerated masters transmitted martial arts skills to
worthy disciples across the centuries. Armed with this knowledge, the
practitioner unimpeachably sets the stage for meaningful practice.
Curious to obtain
feedback on a little known heirloom form taught to me by my teacher,
Grandmaster Richard Chun, and the subject of our upcoming book, I request permission
to execute Original Koryo. This formal exercise represents the primordial
version of Koryo, today the most popular 1st dan black belt poomsae
bar none. Grandmaster Lee looks on and as I complete the final sequence and
return to the joonbi position, I can see a smile crease his face. He appears
amazed that I am in possession of this poomsae and beckons one of his students
to videotape a second performance. He later shares with me that he and his
colleagues were taught Original Koryo decades ago but practice it no more since
it was supplanted by the current iteration of Koryo in 1972. He is very pleased
to see that Grandmaster Chun is reviving this gem of traditional taekwondo.
As the day
progresses, under the grandmaster’s watchful eye, careful scrutiny is given to
all eight Taegeuk poomsae in conjunction with Koryo, Keumgang, Taebaek,
Pyongwon, Sipjin and Jitae. At one point, Grandmaster Lee takes Master
Alejandro aside and focuses on poomsae Cheonkwon, the required 7th
dan poomsae. He then flawlessly performs the formal exercise himself requesting
that we capture it on video so that Master Alejandro may practice it correctly
upon his return to America. Needless to say, it is a stunning performance.
At the completion
of poomsae training, following a short break, Grandmaster Lee and his disciples
advance to a segment of the traditional curriculum often not addressed in
modern taekwondo. Never before in our expeditions to this dojang amongst the
rice paddies, did we engage in the practice of ho sin sool. Therefore, we are delighted
when Grandmaster Lee directs us to choose partners and begins to demonstrate a
variety of tactics focused on defensive measures against various grabs. Some
resemble those accumulated at the Kumgang Taekwondo Center in Seoul. This comes
as no surprise since Master An has been a student of the grandmaster for some
time. Nonetheless, many are new with one being of particular interest.
Grandmaster Lee begins this technique by having an instructor execute a bear
hug from the rear in an upright, standing position. He then breaks the hold by
raising both elbows and shifting his weight by dropping into a horse stance.
Reaching between his feet, he secures the attacker’s right foot, pulling upward
and forcing him to ground. As if that were not sufficient to defuse the
altercation, he sits on the knee of the extended leg and finishes with a foot
lock, ultimately breaking the ankle. While I have trained extensively in ho sin
sool, both at home and in Korea, this is a skill, until now, unknown to me.
With great
enthusiasm, Grandmaster Lee continues with a plethora of self-defense training.
Yet each time we think the class is sadly drawing to an end, he smilingly yells
“One more, one more”. In all of my visits to his dojang, I have never seen him
so eager to share his talents and think how fortunate we are.
Kyongju
– A Museum without Walls
If any location in
modern-day Korea can be designated as the repository of an ancient culture, it
is the coastal city of Kyongju situated in the southeast corner of North
Gyeonsang province. Once the capital of the Silla Kingdom (57 BC – AD 935),
this “museum without walls” as it has come to be known, was home to over 1,000,000
people in its prime. Here stand stately shrines and exotic temples that date
back to antiquity. The Samguk Yusa
(Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms), describes Kyongju as “having as many
temples as stars in the sky and pagodas stretching out in lines like a flock of
wild geese in flight”. No tour of Korea would be complete without an
exploration of its many treasures.
Thursday morning, 8:00am. Excited to see the
hustle and bustle of Seoul unfurl through the windows of our luxury coach, we
motor south along the Kyongju-Busan Expressway for what is to be a two-day immersion
into historical Korea. I have made this trip many times before and so settle
in, Nikon in hand, ready to enjoy the five-hour ride.
Almost literally a
trip back in time, the present seems to recede with each mile as we leisurely
penetrate the interior of the Korean countryside. Scenic vistas open around
every bend and my students are enchanted at the sight of small family shrines
chiseled into the steep hillsides lining the thruway. With each consecutive
visit, I am constantly fascinated with the vast improvements in the Korean infrastructure,
both structurally and technically. The major roadways connecting cities
throughout the country are new and well maintained lending comfort to our
journey south.
It is no mistake
that taekwondo pays tribute to the great mountain ranges of Korea in the shape
of poomsae like Kumgang and Taebaek. With 70% of the nation’s terrain towering
high above sea level, we frequently pass through long tunnels that bore through
rolling hills. As the municipalities of Cheongju, Daejeon and, finally, Daegu,
flash by our windows, I know we are drawing near to our destination.
Eventually, our
motor coach negotiates the long arc of an exit ramp and the distinctive toll
booths that mark the spiritual border, at least for me, of Kyongju, come into
view. After adjusting our speed to the local limit, we casually roll down the
wide avenue of Seorabeol-daero, making our way to Bulguksa Temple, Korea Historical
Site #1 - a striking monument to both the skill of Sillian architecture and its
Buddhist faith.
Bulguksa
Temple – Sacred Buddha Land
Bulguksa, or Buddha
Land Temple, contains a remarkable collection of sacred sites and
incense-drenched meditation halls accented by several distinctive structures. Originally
built in the mid eight-century on the slopes of Tohamsan Mountain, significant
features include the Blue Cloud Bridge or Cheongun-gyo, and two stone pagodas, Dabotap
and Seokgatap that point toward heaven. We are humbled by the splendor of the ornate
tiled roofs supported by timeless timbers painted in the brilliant blue, green
and red hues unique to temple art. With prior consent, many of us seize the
moment and pose for a series of photographs depicting the beauty and strength
of traditional taekwondo using the hallowed temple grounds as a backdrop.
Korean tourists, paying tribute to this historical treasure trove, observe with
great curiosity and nod in acknowledgment as we embrace their native martial
art.
After the long bus
ride and trek through the hills to Bulguksa, we welcome the relative modernity
of the Kyongju Hilton Hotel, our home for the night. Following a scrumptious
dinner of Korean cuisine supplemented by a walk appreciating the sweet, evening
air, we turn in for a welcome night’s sleep.
Golgusa
Temple – Bastion of Sunmudo
Without
question, complete proficiency in traditional taekwondo often requires a
lifetime of undiluted practice to achieve. And so, as martial pilgrims, we devote
all our energies to this worthy pursuit uncorrupted by competing, stylistic
influences. Still, at least while in Korea, I strive to expose my students to forms
of the Korean martial arts that vary somewhat from taekwondo. One such
discipline is sunmudo.
Formally
known as bulgyo kumgang yeong kwan,
sunmudo or traditional Zen Korean martial
arts, mirrors the native combat art practiced by Buddhist warrior monks
during the 16th century. Once reserved exclusively for clerics,
laypeople and non-Buddhists alike can now participate in this ancient practice
revived and systemized by Monk Yong Ik in the 1970s. The central syllabus of
sunmudo revolves around the twin aspects of still
training, including breath control, seated meditation and yoga, and active training involving martial arts
peppered with an element of gymnastics.
Friday morning, 7:00am. For us, our
experience in sunmudo begins as we climb through cloud-like mists to Golgusa
Temple (Stone Buddha Temple), perched high atop Hamwol Mountain. Together, we
struggle up a steep flight of 108 stone steps leading to the mouth of Gwaneum Cave
originally cut into the mountainside by Saint Kwang Yoo during the 6th
century. Inside, the air, drenched with incense, is comparatively cool and dry.
Our eyes quickly become accustomed to the dim light thrown off by an array of
lotus-shaped lanterns suspended from the ceiling. In delight, we notice that we
are surrounded by an army of small, stone Buddhas resting in alcoves throughout
the cave. Quietly, we sit in meditation as Doo Seob Yang, resident monk and
martial arts instructor, speaks in hushed tones about Zen philosophy and how it
relates to sunmudo.
A short time later,
we are led across a sheer rock face, grasping safety ropes, to the pinnacle of
the mountain. Carved into the surface, protected from the elements by a massive
glass overhang, sits the four-meter high, bas-relief sculpture of Maya
Tathagata Buddha, one of the oldest religious ruins in Korea. This is a
profound moment; an awe-inspiring sight to say the least. To compound our
wonder, we turn; from this vantage point the view of the valley below and the
sea beyond is nothing short of breathtaking.
Afterward, we make our
way down a serpentine, rain-slicked trail leading to a spacious training
center. Here, our group is introduced to the rudiments of sunmudo beginning
with a prolonged period of Zen meditation. Having engaged in this process of
purification on a regular basis back at Chosun, we are at an advantage. Where
others involved begin to fidget after a short fifteen minutes, we sit perfectly
still deep in a contemplative state. Our trance is broken only the clap of a
temple bell.
Refreshed, we are
then challenged by an hour’s worth of yogic postures intended to strengthen the
body’s core and enhance flexibility. Our instructor is amazingly loose,
twisting into stances only those aligned with an intimate knowledge of yoga can
attain. The room, while large enough to accommodate our group and several other
visitors, radiates a tranquility that encourages stillness of mind. And so, as
an epilogue to the vigorous training we had just received, we are rewarded with
a period of relaxation exercises, closing the session.
Golgusa is home to
a small community of Buddhist adepts from the world over who marry their
religious beliefs with martial skill. Not far uphill from the training center
sits yet another small temple surrounded by a large wooden deck cantilevered
over the mountainside. We are invited to find seats on the massive temple
steps. Suddenly, several students begin a spirited demonstration of sunmudo
skill put to music, leaping and spinning in midair while executing a
blindingly-fast array of hand strikes and kicks. While the influence of
taekwondo is clearly evident, it is obvious that much has been borrowed from
other Asian martial disciplines to arrive at this unique style. Commemorative
photographs are taken after which our visit comes to a conclusion as we are
lead to a cafeteria where we enjoy a silent, monastic, vegetarian meal.
Tong-Il
Jeon Shrine – In Tribute to the Hwarang
A perfect ending to
the Chosun Taekwondo Academy 2012 Korea Training & Cultural Tour, comes in
the form of a visit to Tong-Il Jeon Shrine
dedicated to the memory of the Hwarang and the illustrious generals that
lead them, with valor, to key victories over the centuries. This elite warrior
corps, responsible for the unification of the Korean peninsula for the first
time in recorded history, represented a caste of young nobles drawn from
prestigious stock. The code of behavior governing the negligent use of martial
arts skill that continues to be embraced by the modern-day taekwondoist, traces
its roots back to two, young Hwarang warriors, Kwisan and Chuhang, in their
quest for moral guidance during the heat of battle.
Friday afternoon, 2:00pm. Nestled in the folds of Namsan Mountain,
overlooking the great Kyongju Plain, we climb what appears to be a countless succession
of steps in order to reach stately structures housing oil paintings of military
training and legendary battles. Here, in an open courtyard, we came to
attention and perform several key poomsae in solemn tribute to fallen warriors
of the past. Our kihops echoing
throughout the valley clearly amplify the strength of our movements.
Unexpectedly, I recall a moment in 1994, on this very spot, when, during my
first journey to Korea, the grandmasters in command directed us to humbly
accept the reverberations of our spirit yells and return with them to America
where we were they were to be shared with others as a tool of inspiration. I
direct my students now, to do the same.
Emotionally charged
by the spiritual significance of our actions within the bounds of this sacred
setting, we reverentially stroll back to our motor coach for the return trip to
Seoul and, eventually, Incheon International Airport. After a week of
demanding, yet unforgettably rewarding training and cultural exchange, our
martial pilgrimage sadly comes to a close…
A Martial
Arts Adventure to Remember
Training and
touring in Korea - Land of the Morning Calm, is an experience taekwondoists
everywhere, regardless of style, will vividly recall for a lifetime. Visiting
the various dojangs and universities, becoming acquainted with the many gifted
masters and students of the art, is certain to add color and meaning to ones
practice. Moreover, it is essential to sample the customs of this vibrant nation
firsthand in order to fully comprehend the roots of the Korean martial arts. In
so doing, practitioners make a geographical and historical connection with
physical technique while acknowledging the distinctive heritage of the Korean
people. It is a journey every practitioner of taekwondo should consider making
during their continuing quest for excellence in the martial arts. As we prepare
for our next training excursion in July of 2014, we invite fellow martial
artists interested in joining the tour to contact us at info@chosuntkd.com or visit www.chosuntkd.com for a sample video
of our most recent expedition.
Master Doug Cook, a 6th
dan black belt, is head instructor of the Chosun Taekwondo Academy located in
Warwick, New York, a senior student of Grandmaster Richard Chun, and author of
three best-selling books entitled: Taekwondo…Ancient
Wisdom for the Modern Warrior, Traditional
Taekwondo - Core Techniques, History and Philosophy, and Taekwondo–A Path to Excellence, all
published by YMAA of Boston. Master Cook and Grandmaster Chun have recently
completed a new book, Taekwondo Black
Belt Poomsae: Original Koryo and Koryo, targeted for publication in July of
2013. Master Cook can be reached for lectures, workshops or questions at www.chosuntkd.com or
info@chosuntkd.com.
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extraordinary experiences of these thirty 
